Nairobi and My Internal Moral Conflice

Myself, the two Americans and two African novices

Joined by fellow volunteers Chris and Jeremy, I took a weekend trip to Nairobi. The city is a fairly modern metropolis with a population of over 3 million. It is one of the more dangerous cities in Africa and has been given the nickname "Nairobbery" due to the high volume of crime. We sensed no such danger during our trip, which can be attributed to the fact that our hostel was conveniently located in the luxurious medical district isolated a few miles from the city center and the Kibera slum. In Nairobi, just like any other city, you must avoid certain areas in order to ensure safety. Kenya is thriving economically in comparison to most other surrounding countries, with Nairobi as the commerce capital of East Africa.

Chris, Jeremy, and I on the roof of the Kenyatta International Conference Center in Nairobi

Upon our afternoon arrival we were hungry and decided to enter the first restaurant in site. A journey up two flights of stairs brought us to a dimly lit establishment offering lunch on red suede couches and chairs. As we observed the ambiance, strategically placed poles and unoccupied stage surrounded by a red suede curtain, it became apparent that we had entered a business that serves low quality food during the day and offers alternative entertainment by night. We elected to move onto the next restaurant we saw. The food was suspect but the beers we ordered, which were the first cold drinks I tasted in over three weeks, were delicious.
After exploring the city center for several hours, we walked to our hostel to clean up before dinner. The total expense per person for two nights in the hostel was $20. The absence of warm water, which would normally cause me frustration, was an insignificant setback that could not diminish my excitement of living with indoor plumbing for a weekend (pressurized showers presented a pleasant break from the bucket showers I take in my eco-bathroom in the village). We chose a blues restaurant for dinner in hope of eating some familiar food. Ironically we enjoyed the Kenyan's version of pasta and hamburgers while listening to Tupac in the background (the Kenyan Miles Davis must have had the night off).

Yanging with the Germans we met in our hostel

Our long drive had left us tired so we decided to pick up a few adult beverages and relax at our hostel. Recognizing that hostels are ideal places to meet interesting people from all over the world, we decided to make friends with a group of Germans staying one floor below us. The conversation and evening turned out to be more fun than we expected.

Saturday consisted of leisurely strolling around the city in hopes of finding basic items such as phone chargers and t-shirts. You can find most everything in Nairobi, although finding hardware supplies proved to be a challenge. Hoping to experience more tastes of home, Jeremy and I shared a pizza. There is no doubt that it was the least satisfying pizza I have ever eaten (which I expected).

All three of us ate modestly on Saturday afternoon in preparation for our dinner at "Carnivore". "Carnivore" is a restaurant located in the wealthy Nairobi suburb of Karen about 20 minutes from the city center. It is famous for serving exotic and rare meat and has been rated one of the top 50 best restaurants in the world multiple times. This is the sequence of the meal: 1. A large tray of salads, breads, and meat sauces are brought to the table; 2. You nibble on the salads and bread (filler food before the main course); 3. To indicate you are ready for the endless variety and quantity of meat, you must place the small white flag vertically on your tray in the upright position; 4. Immediately, gluttonous amounts and varieties of meat are presented on large skewers and swords (yes, real swords!) and cut by the butcher directly onto your personal plate; 5. You dip each type of meat in its own unique dipping sauce that is designed to best compliment the flavor of the meat as the butchers continually present more meat in a rotation pattern until you indicate your surrender by putting your flag down; 6. The main course of meat is followed by a light dessert accompanied by tea or coffee.


Carnivore barbeque pit

A butcher shaving meat from a sword onto our plates

Chicken on skewers

The meat offered that evening included: ostrich meatballs, ostrich, pork sausage, lamb ribs, chicken legs, chicken wings, chicken thighs, camel, ox heart, ox liver, beef, lamb sausage, turkey, and ham. Chris asked one of the butchers if crocodile was being served. The butcher explained that it was not on the menu that evening but had the cooks prepare one piece for each of us. Although crocodile, ostrich, and camel were three of my favorites, the lamb sausage prevailed as best flavor. Everything was ridiculously tasty though. My least favorite was actually the beef. It was dryer and tougher relative to some of the more juicy and tender exotic meats. Jeremy and Chris’ strategy was to take a piece of meat every time it was offered no matter what kind. I, on the other hand, tried every type of meat once and then focused my attention on the exotic and expensive meats that I rarely taste (camel, lamb sausage, and ostrich).

The flag, salads and meat sauces.  The upright flag indicated to the butchers that we were ready for the meat.

Chris reluctantly lowering our flag in surrender.  We could eat no more!

After an hour of filling our bellies with some of the most exotic meats still legal to consume in Kenya, we reluctantly lowered our flag in surrender before finding more stomach space for dessert and tea. The atmosphere and service was top-notch. I can see why the restaurant is so famous, especially after considering that the total cost per person was $40.

While waiting for our table, I met a Norwegian couple in their mid-30s that had decided to grab some dinning during their 5 hour flight lay-over back to Norway. They proceeded to tell me that they had just visited the polytechnic school that they had raised $2 million to build in Sudan. After inquiring about their safety during their time in Sudan, they tried to assure me that a foreigner is safe if escorted by a Sudanese local. They failed as they admitted that they were stopped multiple times and questioned at police check points along the road during their 3 day visit. It was a pleasure to meet such generous people.

The Norwegian couple we met at Carnivore

My Internal Moral Conflict.......I experienced a unique and quite frankly awesome evening at "Carnivore". I wish I could say that the dinner experience was perfect, but it was not. As I sat in a truly utopian looking courtyard, I was overcome by a sobering slap of internal turmoil as the reality of my experience at this wonderful restaurant was brought into perspective. Where were all the Kenyans? Of the 200+ customers at the restaurant, maybe 20 were native, black Kenyans. The rest were individuals native to America, Britain, Australia, various Arab Nations, and India. This was not the "real" Kenya. The Kenya I have been living in for the last month. This was the most extreme of contrasts from the slums, one of which is located less than 10 miles away. As I was devouring the all-you-can-eat buffet that included some of the rarest and most exotic meats in the world, countless thousands of fellow human beings were surviving a food-less evening in their 10ft by 10ft shacks which often shelter 8 or more surrounded by a flood of feces and trash. The extreme contrast in quality of life that was separated by a 10 minutes care ride was disheartening. Furthermore, it was difficult to completely embrace the reality that much of the wealth was possessed by many foreigners that have thrived off the land at the expense of the natives. I doubt it would have made me feel better to see a majority of native Kenyans dining that night aware of the poverty just minutes away, but maybe it would have helped. This is what I mean when I say my Internal Moral Conflict. The internal conflict was temporarily silenced when I thought of my great uncle Angelo's advice. He would always emphasize the importance for visitors and volunteers to experience both the good and bad of Kenya. Westerners continually hear about all the poverty and problems in Africa, but he wanted visitors to also see the beauty of the country. If you came to Kenya and only saw the slums and poverty, he would say that you failed to see the entire country and all that it offers. His words and advice helped me settle down and enjoy the evening.

Overall, I enjoyed Nairobi. I will admit that I was conned a few times at the market place but have now learned valuable bargaining lessons. The market merchants do not know the meaning of "NO". I now have no problem being rude and mean to these merchants that are willing to say anything to con a white person. I can not afford to waste my money on overpriced items that are falsely labeled "authentic" when so many orphans in the village lack basic necessities such as shoes.

This Saturday we had a joint party in the guest house to celebrate my birthday and to wish a farewell to a volunteer leaving this week. I purchased 12 avocados, 10 tomatoes, and cilantro in the village for under $3 (to make a tasty salad). The cost for all 12 avocados totaled $2.50 (not a bad price compared to the states). The salad is one of my favorite dishes prepared in the village, and I insisted on including it in the meal. Elaine, the departing volunteer, bought 3 chickens from the village livestock which was used to make a stew. 25 staff members came for the dinner celebration. I would like to think that everyone came to the celebration because of how fond they are of Elaine and me, but I think it had more to do with the offering of the salad, chicken, and sangaria. Music, dancing and drinks followed dinner. It was a good time.



The staff and volunteers dancing for my birthday dinner celebration


Until next time.........

The Americans Have Arrived

Me trying on an African Kitanga

Sorry it took so long to post but I have had a difficult time finding internet access.  Last week four new volunteers arrived in the village.  Two are novices that are diligently accomplishing there second year training to become Jesuit Priests in the Eastern African Province.  Once is from Ethiopia and another from Tanzania. They only have about 8-10 more years of training to become a Jesuit (they tell me they work very hard every day to stay devoted to their vocation and that it is a daily struggle).  The two other volunteers are Americans from California and Buffalo.  One volunteer is staying for two months and the other for an entire year!  I can't tell you how nice it has been to have some males around the volunteer house.  They are all unique individuals from which I am learning much.

One of the Nyumbani trucks leaving the village.  It is nice and cozy in the back tailgate.

Thus far, I have worked in the sustainability division of the village performing jobs such as: planting trees, planting vegetables, picking vegetables, helping install a solar panel to provide energy to operate a water pump, working in the carpentry shop, and working in the greenhouse.  By the time I arrive home, I could be an expert farmer with all the exposure to farming that I am receiving.  I gave my first tour of the village to a visitor this week and was pleasantly surprised at how much information I have obtained about the village.  These are the notable volunteer activities I have partaken in so far.

Volunteers Jeremy (back right), Chris (left) and I taste testing the newly harv

ested tomatoes.

I have noticed that many of the children in the village do not have shoes to wear and hygiene varies drastically from home to home (depending on the guardian's priorities).  Some children are completely dirty and don't look like they have taken a bath in weeks, and others are so dedicated to cleanliness that they do their laundry every day (by the way, unlike the States children here do their own laundry and cook dinner every evening).  The older children in the homes often take on many responsibilities including cooking, laundry, cleaning the homes, and studying under a kerosene light at night after attending class from 7AM to 7PM.  The grandmothers in charge of each home heavily depend on the older children to maintain the daily functions.

An orphan that just arrived in the village.  She is HIV+ and has lesions on the back of her head due to poor diet and no anti-viral medication.  She is now being administered a proper diet and medication.  She will be healthy soon.

Young teenagers are mature beyond their years and are very eager to receive an education and become successful.  Sr. Francis, the high school principal, adamantly expresses her disbelief at how hardworking, focused, and disciplined the students are in and out of the classroom.  Education is not taken for granted here in Kenya!

The climate in the village is ideal for growing exotic fruits like papaya, mangos, bananas, and passion fruits.  Passion fruit is quite an interesting fruit and is used to make a delicious fruit juice (passion juice is not just a mixture of many different fruits like sometimes found in the states).  The temperature is now increasing and it is in the 80s and 90s every day.

Passion Fruit

I spent an enjoyable afternoon at my Kenyan friend's home, which is outside the village, a few Sundays ago.  John Cutter, a security guard for the village, invited me over for a nice lunch that consisted of rice and peas.  He is a man in his early 30's with four children and a very nice wife.  I told him that I would be available to depart for his place after Mass on Sunday at 11AM.  Little did I know that he worked a 12 hour shift on Saturday night and finished at 6AM, only to wait five hours in the village so he could escort me by foot to his home.  Our journey to his home lasted 90 minutes by foot, the same journey that he travel every day to and from work.  Serving a meal with rice (one bag of rice to feed his family for a day costs $1.25) was a sacrifice for a man that only earns about $75 a month.  John was so excited about my visit that he spread the word to all of his neighbors that his "masungu" (white person) friend was coming for the afternoon.  I was warmly welcomed by all his friends and neighbors.  The table was placed outside under a tree and surrounded by undersized stools, although John insisted I sit in the only chair the family owns, with pleasant background music echoing from a radio manufactured decades ago.  It was a simple lunch that included a wonderful view of the hills and hospitality that is not to be duplicated.  It was a great day!  John has since pestered me about visiting again.  I will be sure to take him up on his offer.  When I was at the supermarket the other day I bought him a bag of rice and sugar (valued items to the locals; the price tag around $3) and presented them to John as an offering of thanks.  I wish I could have had a camera to capture the excitement and gratitude on his face.  It was the least I could do.

Myself and two grandmothers, each in charge of a home.

Jeremy, the volunteer from California, and I enjoyed a beer last Saturday at the nearby town of Kwa Vonza.  We ran into one of the Nyumbani Village police officers who was so excited to see us that he proceeded to order a portion of goat leg for dinner.  Goat is the preferred meat here.  We indulged in the meal as the chef shaved slices of meat and fat off the bone in front of us.  As the darkness of the evening arrived, we decided to take a motorbike back to the village (a 5 minute ride).  Jeremy and I jumped on the back of a bike and soon realized that the driver was not fit to safely escort us home (he was heavily intoxicate although we could not tell at first glance because of the darkness).  The bike made it 50 feet before we took a violent tumble.  Luckily I was not hurt due to my catlike reflexes and amazing agility I developed as a backup power forward for the Rockhurst High School JV basketball team.  Jeremy was also not hurt.  After deciding to take another crack at motorbike transportation, this time on separate motorbikes, we were equally frighted as the drivers decided to partake in a competition in which they took turns speeding up and passing each other at questionable speeds and stretches of road.  We eventually made it home safe and recognize that we should avoid motorbike transportation at night.

Cookies and juice after Nyumbani Day mass.

As many of you know, D'Agostinos tend to be follicly challenged on the head but not on the arms or legs.  God blessed us with that attractive physical trait.  I bet your wondering where im going with this.  Well.....the only thing that the young children are more intrigued by than a tall "masungu" is a tall hairy "masungu".  The children are thoroughly fascinated by my arm hair and have no reservations with touching it.  I can't help but laugh at their excitement and curiosity.

Nyumbani Day was on September 5th. On this day the village remembers my great uncle Angelo (Fr. Dag to the village) and gives thanks for all the blessing in the village.  At the end of the mass the priest called me up in front of the congregation of 700 people to offer a few words of advice (as if I possess some valuable wisdom).  I must have said something right because many people presented me with complements after the mass which only lasted a shade over 3.5 hours.  Immediately following mass a stampede ensued when cookies and juice were offered.  This was quite a treat for the children who each received two cookies similar to the size and taste of an animal cracker.   

Staff and volunteers after Nyumbani Day mass.

The guest house that I live in has two cooks that provide us three meals a day.  I found out this week that one of the cooks, John, was a chef at a 5 star restaurant in Nairobi before taking the position in the village.  He explained to me that he was from the area and felt obligated to take a significant pay cut if it meant helping orphans in need.  I can learn much from his sacrifice and humility.

John, the guest house cook, and myself

The other night all the volunteers decided to go on top of a water tower and look at the stars.  The vision and illumination from the stars are like nothing I have seen.  Its interesting how visible stars appear in areas mostly absent of fossil fuels and skyscrapers.  It is pretty cool and it feels like your in a planetarium at the science center.

High school freshman in the village posing as if they are kicking a soccer ball into a goal.

Until next time friends.....