India-Week 4 & 5….Coming to America

Leh

My last two weeks of India consisted of breathtaking views, excitement, peaceful experiences, frustrations, exhaustion, extreme weather differences, inspiring encounters and reluctant goodbyes. The final four destinations I visited included Goa, Hampi, Leh and Delhi.

My last blog post revealed the unfortunate demise of my iPod. Well…I lost my camera in week 4 containing all of my India pictures. I was forced to resort to having friends that I made along the way send me pictures by email in order to finish this final entry. Fortunately, I had saved all of my Kenya pictures on a flash drive. Quite frankly, I am surprised I made it almost 8 months without somehow destroying or losing my camera. I imagine that parents are also wondering how I was responsible for so long. In summation, I lost my camera and all my India pictures but still have my Kenya pictures. I resorted to purchasing overpriced disposable cameras in order to take pictures of Hampi and Leh.

My previous post ended with me in Udaipur. I left Udaipur via an 18 hour train ride to Mumbai, where slumdog millionaire was filmed. Upon arriving, I was overwhelmed with the chaos that is Mumbai. The city is the major financial capital and home of Bollywood (India’s version of Hollywood). People flock to this city from all over the country with dreams of making a better life. The result is a large influx of unskilled migrants from the countryside that has given rise to the largest slums in the world.

The overwhelming odors, population, and homelessness struck me as I got off the train. It was the intimidating India that I expected before arriving to the country. Knowing that it would take me a week or two to begin to attack such a city, I decided to get to the local bus station and take a bus to Goa. I was in no mental state to navigate such a city and decided it was best to skip Mumbai for more peaceful and relaxing destinations. In navigating to the bus stop, I had to cross through the rubble of a recently collapsed train overpass in which thousands of people were scheming to use the crumbled pieces of steal and assorted parts for some benefit. As I walked toward the local train to take me to the bus station, I observed many filthy children, obviously homeless, lying on piles of used clothes that were being distributed by a local organization that was apparently overwhelmed by the mass numbers that had gathered to collect any available item. As I attempted to stealthily slither my way through the crowds, I felt a tug on my backpack. I turned to see a teenager attempting to unload the contents out of my bag. After yelling at him he fled into the masses.

The local city train, my first such experience, was no doubt more crowded and confusing than the New York subway. Just like in the movies, the Indians were literally hanging out the open train holding on to anything possible. I had to take extra care of my possessions on the train as it afforded no personal space. After six hours in Mumbai, I was on a 13 hour bus to Goa. Needless to say, I was happy to be leaving Mumbai.

Goa
I arrived at Goa and took a local bus to the closest beach. After finding a cheap guest house on the beach, I went to the closest restaurant to indulge in some fresh fish. It was amazing! The cuisine in Goa is unique and combines fish and coconut in the dishes (two ingredients that I love). Hundreds of years ago Portuguese missionaries settled in Goa. Consequently, I experienced my first Catholic presence in India. Only 2% of the population in India is Christian. It was nice to see a Catholic church.

Goa is situated on the west coast and has become a popular travel destination for rich Europeans, especially Russians. The beach was filled with white vacationing family. All I could think is…this is not India. I decided to leave the next day on an overnight bus to a small town called Hampi.

Hampi
Along my trip I had heard nothing but exciting stories about the experience and beauty of Hampi. I decided to check it out myself. Hampi is a town toward the center of the country that is surrounded by hills of impossibly configured boulders. Surrounding the boulders as far as you can see are strategically placed rice patty fields and banana tree fields surrounded by coconut trees. The result is an abundance of the best tasting rice, bananas and coconuts. No doubt that I indulged in all three of these local food staples.

Hampi

Hampi

My second day I decided to rent a motor bike and explore this region which contains beautiful boulder formations, scenery, and Hindu temples. After parking and walking toward a temple, I was approached by a fellow traveler. She asked me what temple this was. Of course I did not know. After finding out that she was from California, she asked me where I was going. I explained to her that I was heading toward the nearest town to purchase a beer and watch the sunset on a boulder hill. She explained that she was hoping to grab a beer and asked if she could join. She jumped on the back of my motorbike and within two minutes of meeting a fellow American traveler we drove off into the sunset (that is actually not true because it was only 4pm). We hung out for the next day. I was lucky to meet another unique and inspiring individual on my trip. The following evening we parted ways and I headed back to Goa.

Hampi on my way to a waterfall.  The red spot on my forehead is a powder applied as a Hindu blessing when visiting a temple.

Hampi rice fields

From Goa I flew to Delhi and stayed with my friends the Puris for two days before flying to Leh.

Leh

Leh is a city in the northern province of Kashmir and Jammu (yes that Kashmir) that resides in a valley of the Himalayas. It is heavily populated by Tibetan refugees and Indian military due to the close proximity to Pakistan and China occupied Tibet. In Delhi I bought some cheap winter close in preparations for the harsh weather in the mountains (my Kenyan cloths would not suffice in such a climate). I stepped off the plane to 10 degree Fahrenheit temperatures. It was not warm! My body was definitely not used to the cold climate or high altitude. I had not experienced such cold in over 14 months.



The Indus river from which India got its name.



My first day consisted of taking it easy in my room and adapting to the climate and altitude. The next day I met a Polish couple and we decided to hire a driver to take us through several towns in the mountains and see various Buddhist temples. There is no doubt that I observed the most beautiful landscapes in my life. The polish couple was amazing and I enjoyed listening to them banter in broken English for several hours during the ride. 

Himalayas

The following two days I explored Leh and found quiet places to relax and take in the view. My hope for Leh was to relax in a peaceful place of beauty to reflect on the last 8 month of my quest and to mentally prepare myself for coming home. This place afforded me this opportunity and I embraced several hours of reflection while gazing at scenery of mountain ranges accompanied by the sound of birds chirping and a water stream in the background. It truly was a perfect destination to conclude my trip.

A small town in the region where we visited a Buddhist monastery.

The following morning I woke up to a town full of snow and fog that limited ones sight to 5 feet. Upon arriving at the airport I was informed that my flight was delayed. After waiting another hour, the flight was canceled and we were told to return the following morning. Cold and tired, I decided to splurge and get a room with adequate heating and cable TV. Because it was too cold to go outside, I spent the day ordering room service and watching HBO. The next morning I made it to Delhi.

Me with my Polish friend

Delhi
Upon arriving in Delhi, the Puris explained to me that I missed my party that they had thrown for me the following evening, as they had anticipated my arrival the previous day. They had invited all their friends to wish me off. I was saddened that I could not attend my own party but was encouraged that they liked me enough to plan a party in my honor. We spent the day talking and them stuffing me with my last taste of authentic Indian food for a while.

That night, we sat and watched a video of their youngest daughter’s wedding in the early 90’s. The event consisted of 10 consecutive days of parties and gatherings. I was thrilled to have a chance to see scenes of my Aunt Julie and late grandparents, who had attended the event. The following morning I went to the airport and began a two day trip that consisted of little sleep and much time in airport before arriving back in the states on March 23, 2011. My departure from the Puris was no doubt emotional and it is obvious that we will equally miss each other.

I am now at home in the states and am recovering from my 8 month quest. It was all that I expected and more and I am grateful to all that supported me through this experience. This quest allowed much personal growth and I am no doubt the better for it.

So this is it. No more posts and no more inspiring and exciting adventures…at least for a while. I look forward to seeing all of you soon in person!


Sincerely,

John Mike D’Agostino

India- Week 2 & 3

Sunset view of Udaipur

 My second and third week in India provided unexpected adventures.  I met some really interesting and cool people, had a chance to participate in fun and challenging activities, and visited some beautiful sights.  I now understand how to manuvour through the country.  From personal experience and speaking with other travelers, I have learned how the bus, train, autorickshaw (three wheeled vehicles everywhere throughout India), and hotel systems work. 

A streetside Indian dessert vendor in Varanasi.  Varanasi is known for its desserts.

 My first long train ride (14 hours) from Agra to Varanasi was rough.  I was definitely not prepared for the trip.  I bought a general ticket because the train was completely booked.  A general ticket places you in a train car where you most likely will not have a seat.  Armed with no blanket and clothes fit for Kenyan survival, I suffered.  I was placed in an entrance way next to the doors and the toilets.  The combination of odor and a constant cold breeze streaming through the poorly sealed doors made for a cold 14 hours.  I arrived in Varanasi ready to find a room and sleep!

Varanasi
The last time you heard from me I was deciding which amazing city to visit next.  Varanasi is where I ended up. Varanasi is the Hindu religious capital, an academic center in India, and one of the oldest continually inhabited cities in the world.  The Hindus believe that the river bordering Varanasi (Ganga River) contains holy water.  It is believed that if a Hindu person's ashes are put into the river, that person will be relieved from the cycle of reincarnation.  Cleaning your clothes or body in the water is purifying and many people do so.

A common site in the streets of Varanasi.

Countless ghats, or holy platforms and staircases that lead to the Ganga, encompass the river bank.  This is the main attraction of Varanasi.  Hindu people take religious pilgrimages to this holy city for various spiritual purposes.  Each ghat has a different purpose.  For instance, one of the ghats is the location for body burnings (after one has already died) which are performed continuously throughout the day and evening.  The ashes of the body are then spread into the river.  This public body burning tradition is much different than private cremations in the states.

Varanasi was old and dirty with confusing alley ways that led to my disorientation on numerous occasions.  The city was definitely less modern and wealthy as the other cities I have visited.  Despite its rough edges, Varanasi possessed a spiritual vibe that made it quite unique.  Indians travel from all over the country to contribute and participate in the spiritual atmosphere of the city.

Traditional Hindu ceremony performed on a Ghat in Varanasi

Sunset view of Varanasi

 Because of its spiritual nature, Yoga is famous in Varanasi.  Therefore, I decided to take my first Yoga class.  Wow.. was my performance embarrassing.  I displayed absolutely no flexibility and often failed at performing the most basic breathing techniques.  How hard is breathing?  Despite my poor performance, it provided a strong base for further exploration in the future.

I took a sunset boat ride into the Ganga River which was quite peaceful.  That evening I boarded a long train for Jaipur.

Jaipur
My 18 hour train trip to Jaipur was much more pleasant with a sleeper bed and newly purchased sleeping bag.  Upon arriving, I immediately recognized distinct differences between Jaipur and Varanasi.  Jaipur is a modern, wealthy city due to its high business activity and jewelry enterprises.  It is very cheap for companies to send diamonds to Jaipur to be cleaned and shaped with dirt-cheap Indian labor and then ship the finished products to the western world to be sold at a substantial markup.

A palace build in the water in Jaipur

An elephant orphanage in Jaipur

 I visited a 1000 year old Hindu temple in the hills just outside of the city.  This was the most memorable part of my time in Jaipur.  I spent one day in bed recovering from a head cold which significantly diminished my energy.  The following day, after getting plenty of rest, I boarded a train for Jaiselmer.

Jaiselmer
Jaiselmer is a desert city in the western part of the country about 80km from Pakistan.  The cities main attraction is its hilltop fort.  You can stay in the fort but are encouraged to resist due to water shortages partly from excessive tourism.  The city was much smaller and more peaceful than any of the other places in India that I have visited so far.  

Jaiselmer Fort

 I met three French travelers and one Danish traveler on the train to Jaiselmer.  We ended up staying at the same hotel and they convinced me to go on a camel safari with them.  Jaiselmer safaris are famous but because I had recently been on a Kenyan safari, which cannot be duplicated, I did not plan on going on one.  My plans changed when my new friends pursuaded me to tag along on their safari.  Yearning for social contact, I quickly buckled and joined the group.

We left for the camel safari in the morning at 8:00am and arrived the next evening at 6:00pm.  We rode the camels for five hours on the first day and stopped to camp in the desert on sand dunes.  We ate dinner and our safari guide sang desert-man songs as we sat around a fire.  Sleeping out in the desert was very cold but provided a beautiful view of the sky.  The following day we road for 5 more hours.

What a natural!

The travelers I went on the safari with.

Our camel safari guide singing around the fire.

 Riding a camel is quite uncomfortable, expectually for men.  Beyond the obvious body parts that were sore, my legs and back also ached toward the end of the safari.  Calling our trip a safari is not very accurate considering we only saw a gazelle from the distance.  Nevertheless, I enjoyed the experience and making new friends.

Where we slept

Udaipur
I have now spent a few days in Udaipur and plan on leaving this evening for Mumbai.  Udaipur has been the most beautiful city I have visited thus far (and also my favorite).  Udaipur is a modern city build around a lake that is surrounded by steep hills.  Yesterday I went to a place on top of one of the hills that provides a wonderful view of the city during sunset.  It was the most rewarding tourist activity I have partaken in during my time in India.  I also took a cooking class yesterday.  My performance was much better than yoga due to my experience cooking Italian food at home.  It was enjoyable and I now know how to cook basic Indian food.  I look forward to trying the new recipes when I return to the states. 

In cooking class with another student and the instructor on the far right.

 I have been able to relax and recharge here.  I am now ready to begin the second half of my trip. A sidenote....My ipod, my theraputic tool during times of exhaustian, boredom and frustration, has broken.  I will have to finish my trip the old fashioned way, without music.  Hopefully I will be able to persevere and survive without it. 

Until Next Time....

My First Week In India-D'AGOSTINO FRIENDS AND TAJ MAHAL

Taj Mahal:  I am finding that the local Indians do not know how to work a camera.  My body definitely looks photo-shopped but I promise you that I was actually at the Taj Mahal.

I have arrive safely and have spent a week in the capital of India, Delhi. This country is going to have to clear enough space for one more human being (me) into its already overpopulated country of 1 billion plus people. My first impression of India is one of welcoming people, lovely aromas (and sometimes not so lovely), delicious foods and deserts, rich history, beautiful monuments and an intriguing variety of religious influences.

Humayun's Tomb: A tomb in Delhi of one of the Emperors that ruled in the 1600s.

This stretch of my trip will surely prove to be one of pleasure. My plan is to travel throughout the country for the next month. My itinerary is flexible and I am willing to adjust my plans at any time. Here is my tentative itinerary: Delhi, Agra, Khajuraho (Kama Sutra structures), Varanasi, Jaipur, Jodhpur, Jaiselmer, Udaipur, Mumbai, Aurangabad, Goa and Leh. It will be a challenge to accomplish such terrain in such a short time. I happen to be up to the task knowing that cutting this trip short means accelerating the inevitable reality that awaits me at home.

The Henna Ceremony (a traditional party leading up to a wedding) I attended in Delhi.

 I arrived last Saturday and my time in Delhi has been very enjoyable. I am staying with close family friends, the Puris. Upon arriving at their home, these people that I have never personally met but only heard stories about embraced me with a hug and explained emphatically that we are family and urged me to make myself at home. Later on that evening, the one family member that I knew from many of her visits to Tony and Mayme D’Agostino’s home during holidays, Mandy, arrived in Delhi from New York. It was a pleasant surprise when she arrived, considering I had no idea she was coming to Delhi to visit her family. The generousity and warmth extended to me by the Puris cannot be duplicated.

Saturday night eight of us went out to dinner and became acquainted with each other. Sunday night we also went out to dinner at a tasty Chinese restaurant. The Puris were emphatic that I eat non-Indian food knowing that I will soon have Indian food overload (if that is possible) because many of the places throughout my journey will only serve Indian food. Monday afternoon I accompanied two of the sister, Radhika and Rashmani, to a Henna Ceremony. This is one of a series of 4-5 back-to-back wedding parties culminated by the wedding ceremony. The Henna Ceremony is traditionally a female only gathering but they made an exception. As I arrived at the event venue, the home of the bride's father, I was overtaken in awe. I thought some people in the states through extravagant wedding parties. How wrong I was. This party was one of 5 parties leading up to the wedding and it was nicer than any wedding reception I have attended. The Puris informed me later that this party was relatively modest compared to many they attend. That evening we celebrated Mandy's birthday with 40-50 close friends of the Puris at their home.  Tuesday I attended a wedding reception. Once again, the event was something that is not so easy to describe. I felt like royalty which is ironic considering that I met 10 or so princesses (of different regions throughout the country) as I played the role of Delhi social-light. I tried to convince them that I was the Prince of the Midwest but my clothes, not to mention my unrefined behavior, made it difficult to believe. 

The Puris at Mandy's birthday party:  Radhika, Rashmani, David (Rashmani's husband), Mandy (in yellow), and Mr. and Mrs. Puri.

Mandy and I at her party.

Mrs. Puri and I.

The following two evening I was privileged enough to have dinner with other family friends. On Wednesday evening I had dinner with the Mukarjis and Thursday dinner with the Seghals (none of whom I had met before). Both evening were similar in that I was stuffed with tasty food over conversation about various topics, mainly stories and memories of past experiences with my family members. I was grateful to continue these family connections.

The Seghals at their home.  I am mad that I forgot to get a picture with the Mukarjis.

Agra
This evening I am leaving Agra for ??????.  I must decide in the next hour or so where I want to go to next.  This decision will be made at the train station.

The Taj Mahal was as striking and beautiful as expected.  I met a young guy at the train station when I arrived and we decided to share a room and save some money.  Why was I so willing to share a room with a complete stranger that I had just met....because he a Kansas City native that went to Shawnee Mission Northwest.  After an intense and extensive conversation about KC BBQ, a bond of trust was established. 

The Taj Mahal looks more beautiful without me in the picture.

Closer view of the marble work of the Taj Mahal.

 Today I went to a previously abandoned city, Fatehpur Sikri, that the Emperor built as the capital of his empire in the 1500's, only to move the capital a decade later after facing water shortages (a long line of D'Agostino plumbers could have diagnosed this city's eventual water problems long before moving the capital here).

Rooftop restaurant in Agra.  Not a bad spot to enjoy a beer during the sunset.

 Now I am off to the train station to catch a random train.  I will let you know in a week or so where I ended up and what transpired.

Streets of Fatehpur Sikri, a city abandoned in the 1500's due to water shortages.  Obviously people live their now.

 Until Next Time... 

Saying Goodbye to Kenya

 


The family of a security guard of the Village



Today I am leaving Kenya to travel throughout India for the next 3-4 weeks.  My time in Kenya has concluded.  My feelings at this moment are bitter-sweet.  It has been difficult to say goodbye to this place that I have come to consider my home for the last 5+ months, but then again I have recently developed a desire to move on to the next challenge and phase in my life.  My personal quest will continue as I explore a significant portion of another former British stronghold, India.  I am, as you would expect, experiencing feeling of excitement and unease as I prepare for a month of traveling on my own in a foreign land full of beauty and rich history. 

The child of a police officer of the Village

My Last Weeks in the Village

Two weeks ago I had the pleasure of welcoming Board Members from around the world into the Village.  Nyumbani (COGRI) hosts a yearly summit meeting in which members of the US, Italy, Spain, UK, Ireland, and Kenya board gather to discuss the organization’s progress.  The visit proved to be a wonderful opportunity to meet close friends of Father D’Agostino.  These people were eager to share stories and shed more light on who my great uncle was and what made him tick.  Stories were shared about how Uncle Angelo’s passion, insight and wisdom changed their lives as he stubbornly and confidently persuaded them to become a life-long Nyumbani supporter.  One women quit her job immediately after have a discussion with Uncle Angelo and vowed to devote her life to supporting those of need in Kenya (she created an organization that supports Nyumbani along with other projects in Kenya).  My time with these people was truly inspiring, not to mention the benefit of networking with influential people throughout the world. 

A young D'Agostino supporter

A young child of a community member.

Last Friday evening I hosted my going-away party at the Village Guest House.  It proved to be quite a day.  I woke up and finished packing and taking care of some loose ends.  The goat that I purchased arrived at the Guest House at 2:00pm.  At 2:30, the preparations for dinner (the slaughter) began.  Three community members were designated as butchers.  As I have learned from my extensive time watching travel channel programs such as Anthony Bourdain’s-No Reservations and Andrew Zimmern’s-Bizarre Foods is that a major component to experiencing another culture is embracing the food, including preparation of food.  Although it was not the easiest situation to endure, I observed the slaughter and food preparation process from living, breathing animal to delicious meat on my plate (you really can’t get much more connected to your food).  It was quite a different experience from driving to your local supermarket and buying the most delicious-looking slab of meat on the refrigerator shelves. 

Myself, a security guard, a guest house cook and our dinner for my party.

The butchers in action

The company was as satisfying as the meal.  A large percentage of the staff and about 25 village grandmothers attended the celebration.  I would like to think that they came to say farewell to me, but I am a realist and understand that Kenyan’s will jump at any chance to enjoy a free meal.  The meal was followed by kurubu (Kenyan homemade beer), jungle-juice (a mixture of vodka and juice), chocolates from Spain provided by one of our volunteers, music, and dancing.  I was up late showing-off my recently acquired Kenyan dance moves and savoring my last moments in the Village.  

Kenyan dancing

Slums

The following day I journeyed back to Nairobi to stay at Nyumbani Home (the base of the organization).  I spent a few days relaxing and embracing the city life before visiting the slums on Tuesday and Thursday.  One of our programs, Lea Toto, provides assistance for HIV+ children in 8 slums throughout Nairobi.  Lea Toto organized my visit to the slums of Kangemi and Mukuru. 

The sewage system of Mukuru slum

Kangemi offered more livable accommodations, where as Mukuru was more inhumane.  Homes in the slums are anywhere from 10ft by 10ft to 15ft by 15ft shacks constructed of sheets of tin.  Each shack is attached to the next in long isles of tin structures that span miles.  The slums are basically towns/cities constructed of shacks and small alleys of trash and often sewage.  The slums resemble what I imagine the living accommodations were like for impoverished immigrants in large US cities in the 1800s.  The most significant difference between Kangemi and Mukuru was the toilet/bathing accommodations.  In Kangemi, each section of the slums had toilets and structures to take a bucket shower. Makuru, on the other hand, did not have toilets or bathing facilities in the near vicinity.  People must walk a mile or so to reach the nearest toilet, not to mention the fee to use the facility (many people can not afford the fee to use the toilet).  Furthermore, most of the inhabitants of the slums appeared to be young people, mostly single women, in their twenties with several children.  Many of these young people moved from their rural homes in search of work and the city life.  After arriving in the city with little money, they struggle to find a job and eventually end up in the slums scraping by every day.  To make things worse, some people get comfortable with the free assistance that many NGOs are providing them and begin to take advantage of the system (does this remind you of a similar problem we face in the states with some people that become comfortable and dependent on our welfare system).

So I will no doubt miss my friends I have made in Kenya but am excited for what lies ahead…..INDIA.

Until Next Time From India…..

The Coast of Kenya

On the rooftop of the hostel in Lamu.

I was a little lonely being the only person in the Guest House during Christmas. Fortunately, I had a trip to the Kenyan coast to look forward to. On the evening of December 27th I took a bus to Mombasa and began a two week vacation up and down the coast.

The white sand of Diani Beach in Mombasa

Mombasa-Diani Beach
My first stop was Mombasa, which happens to be the largest seaport in east Africa. I was greeted by some volunteers (Aliza, Natessa and Andy) that had arrived the evening before. We went back to our rented beach house so I could drop off my bags before going to the beach for some snorkeling. We drove an hour to a small secluded area. It was quite beautiful and peaceful besides the large family with obnoxious children that accompanied us in the boat. Snorkeling was followed by an, all you can eat, five course Swahili meal overlooking the sea that included: fresh coconut, crab, pleasantly tasty seaweed, rice and fish with coconut sauce and masala, fruit, etc. I became quite fond of Swahili food at this point (the food is so much better than traditional Kenyan food). Swahili is the culture created centuries ago as the Arabians arrived to the coast and mixed with the local Kenyans (the Swahili language is the national language of Kenya).

Natessa, Aliza, Andy and Myself at a beach bar on Diani Beach.

The remaining days up to January 1 consisted of going to the beach and enjoying cocktails, except for one day in which we explored the city. The beach had white sand with the consistency and texture of flour which stays cool during the 100 degree days. The coast averages 8 hours of sunlight all year long and 50-75% humidity. This weather was much hotter than at the Village. It was the heat I expected when arriving in Kenya. Take the hottest day in KC or STL in the summer with high humidity that makes you sweat after 5 minutes outside, and that is the weather every day on the coast (although if you are on the beach you do get the coastal breeze).

Diani Beach.  No camel ride for me.

A bar on the beach hosted a New Years party. The entrance fee was $30 but drinks were not included. Natessa and Aliza bought tickets, while Andy and I refused. Andy and I hung out on the beach next to the bar and watched the fireworks at midnight. Soon after

Andy went home leaving me by myself on the beach. With my stealth skills I snuck into the party twice only to be booted and kindly informed that the cops would be called if they caught me again. The remainder of the evening consisted of hanging out with the local Kenyans that could not afford a ticket. Being the only white person sitting outside the party, the locals tried to hit me up for money. It took an hour to convince them that I had no money before we became friends and had a good time.

Us four on the beach on New Years Eve.

Lamu
The next day we woke up in panic as we realized that we slept through the alarm and had less than 90 minutes to get to the bus station for our next destination. Luckily, everything fell perfectly into place and we barely made it to the station on time. After buying the largest bottles of water we could find, we boarded the bus for a six hour bumpy bus ride to Lamu.

Lamuan Riding a Donkey

Lamu is a small island close to the Somali border. It is an island that has not been developed and industrialized. Although there is tourism during specific time of the year, the island remains authentic. Lamu was a major trade port for centuries and has preserved the buildings and structures. The island consists of narrow windy allies with small shops, fruit vendors, restaurants, and a central plaza. The atmosphere is unique with the ban of vehicles and a predominantly Muslim presence (which is widespread throughout the coast). Many of the women dress in black burkas which can’t be comfortable in the extreme heat. Five times a day you hear a load speaker calling for prayer, with the first awaking you at 5AM. Although alcohol exists, it is found in few places on the island because of Islam. The island offered hints of a Venice vibe, but smaller, with less tourist, Muslim influenced, and cheaper. Furthermore, the main mode of transport and hauling is the donkey. Donkeys are everywhere, which provides a cool vibe but often a foul smell as you are continually dodging donkey dung. If you can tolerate the smell the place is wonderful.

Old Town Lamu

The people eat traditional Swahili food which includes a ton of fish. Large mangos are a daily staple sold by vendors picked from the tree that morning. We walked around and did the tourist thing one day before deciding to explore the allies for enticing shops.

The fourth day we decided to go on a fishing trip on a dhow operated by four locals. This could be the coolest day of my Kenya trip so far. We went out to the Indian Ocean to fish (of course I didn’t catch a fish) before going to another island called Manda for lunch. The crew cooked a meal as we swam in the comfortable 80 degree water. The island was empty so we had a secluded meal using our hands while sitting on a blanket under a canopy on the beach. The meal was ridiculously good with the main course being rice and a 7lb red snapper that we shared (the locals caught it earlier that day). The 8 hour trip was memorable.

On a Sand Dune Overlooking the Ocean in Lamu

Balancing the Dhow.  One minute after this picture was taken a gush of wind tipped the boat and I violently slid into the boat causing the boat to excessively rock and Natessa to become soaked with water.  I guess I'm not as athletic as I thought.

Malindi
The following day, I left the girls and Andy in Lamu as I traveled back south to Malindi for a few days. At this point I was ready to explore a city on my own. Malindi is a coastal city that has been heavily inhabited by Italians. Not surprisingly, I was excited to indulge in an Italian meal. As I arrived, I realized that Malindi was not going to be my favorite stop. All the rich Italians owned extravagant homes or stayed at nice resorts away from the unique city center. I did find a cool Italian supermarket, Italian meat/cheese shop (I enjoyed my salami and provolone sandwich), and gelato shop. After two days in Malindi and one afternoon exploring a local town called Watamu, I got on a bus to head back to the Village.

In Malindi.  Damn Italians!

A sign in my hostel in Malindi which was operated by Muslims.  To their defense, my experience with the Muslim people/culture on the coast was nothing but hospitable and friendly (besides this sign, of course). 

 My vacation on the coast was a well needed brake, but I was ready to get back to the Village to greet 27 Irish visitors.

Until Next Time…