India-Week 4 & 5….Coming to America

Leh

My last two weeks of India consisted of breathtaking views, excitement, peaceful experiences, frustrations, exhaustion, extreme weather differences, inspiring encounters and reluctant goodbyes. The final four destinations I visited included Goa, Hampi, Leh and Delhi.

My last blog post revealed the unfortunate demise of my iPod. Well…I lost my camera in week 4 containing all of my India pictures. I was forced to resort to having friends that I made along the way send me pictures by email in order to finish this final entry. Fortunately, I had saved all of my Kenya pictures on a flash drive. Quite frankly, I am surprised I made it almost 8 months without somehow destroying or losing my camera. I imagine that parents are also wondering how I was responsible for so long. In summation, I lost my camera and all my India pictures but still have my Kenya pictures. I resorted to purchasing overpriced disposable cameras in order to take pictures of Hampi and Leh.

My previous post ended with me in Udaipur. I left Udaipur via an 18 hour train ride to Mumbai, where slumdog millionaire was filmed. Upon arriving, I was overwhelmed with the chaos that is Mumbai. The city is the major financial capital and home of Bollywood (India’s version of Hollywood). People flock to this city from all over the country with dreams of making a better life. The result is a large influx of unskilled migrants from the countryside that has given rise to the largest slums in the world.

The overwhelming odors, population, and homelessness struck me as I got off the train. It was the intimidating India that I expected before arriving to the country. Knowing that it would take me a week or two to begin to attack such a city, I decided to get to the local bus station and take a bus to Goa. I was in no mental state to navigate such a city and decided it was best to skip Mumbai for more peaceful and relaxing destinations. In navigating to the bus stop, I had to cross through the rubble of a recently collapsed train overpass in which thousands of people were scheming to use the crumbled pieces of steal and assorted parts for some benefit. As I walked toward the local train to take me to the bus station, I observed many filthy children, obviously homeless, lying on piles of used clothes that were being distributed by a local organization that was apparently overwhelmed by the mass numbers that had gathered to collect any available item. As I attempted to stealthily slither my way through the crowds, I felt a tug on my backpack. I turned to see a teenager attempting to unload the contents out of my bag. After yelling at him he fled into the masses.

The local city train, my first such experience, was no doubt more crowded and confusing than the New York subway. Just like in the movies, the Indians were literally hanging out the open train holding on to anything possible. I had to take extra care of my possessions on the train as it afforded no personal space. After six hours in Mumbai, I was on a 13 hour bus to Goa. Needless to say, I was happy to be leaving Mumbai.

Goa
I arrived at Goa and took a local bus to the closest beach. After finding a cheap guest house on the beach, I went to the closest restaurant to indulge in some fresh fish. It was amazing! The cuisine in Goa is unique and combines fish and coconut in the dishes (two ingredients that I love). Hundreds of years ago Portuguese missionaries settled in Goa. Consequently, I experienced my first Catholic presence in India. Only 2% of the population in India is Christian. It was nice to see a Catholic church.

Goa is situated on the west coast and has become a popular travel destination for rich Europeans, especially Russians. The beach was filled with white vacationing family. All I could think is…this is not India. I decided to leave the next day on an overnight bus to a small town called Hampi.

Hampi
Along my trip I had heard nothing but exciting stories about the experience and beauty of Hampi. I decided to check it out myself. Hampi is a town toward the center of the country that is surrounded by hills of impossibly configured boulders. Surrounding the boulders as far as you can see are strategically placed rice patty fields and banana tree fields surrounded by coconut trees. The result is an abundance of the best tasting rice, bananas and coconuts. No doubt that I indulged in all three of these local food staples.

Hampi

Hampi

My second day I decided to rent a motor bike and explore this region which contains beautiful boulder formations, scenery, and Hindu temples. After parking and walking toward a temple, I was approached by a fellow traveler. She asked me what temple this was. Of course I did not know. After finding out that she was from California, she asked me where I was going. I explained to her that I was heading toward the nearest town to purchase a beer and watch the sunset on a boulder hill. She explained that she was hoping to grab a beer and asked if she could join. She jumped on the back of my motorbike and within two minutes of meeting a fellow American traveler we drove off into the sunset (that is actually not true because it was only 4pm). We hung out for the next day. I was lucky to meet another unique and inspiring individual on my trip. The following evening we parted ways and I headed back to Goa.

Hampi on my way to a waterfall.  The red spot on my forehead is a powder applied as a Hindu blessing when visiting a temple.

Hampi rice fields

From Goa I flew to Delhi and stayed with my friends the Puris for two days before flying to Leh.

Leh

Leh is a city in the northern province of Kashmir and Jammu (yes that Kashmir) that resides in a valley of the Himalayas. It is heavily populated by Tibetan refugees and Indian military due to the close proximity to Pakistan and China occupied Tibet. In Delhi I bought some cheap winter close in preparations for the harsh weather in the mountains (my Kenyan cloths would not suffice in such a climate). I stepped off the plane to 10 degree Fahrenheit temperatures. It was not warm! My body was definitely not used to the cold climate or high altitude. I had not experienced such cold in over 14 months.



The Indus river from which India got its name.



My first day consisted of taking it easy in my room and adapting to the climate and altitude. The next day I met a Polish couple and we decided to hire a driver to take us through several towns in the mountains and see various Buddhist temples. There is no doubt that I observed the most beautiful landscapes in my life. The polish couple was amazing and I enjoyed listening to them banter in broken English for several hours during the ride. 

Himalayas

The following two days I explored Leh and found quiet places to relax and take in the view. My hope for Leh was to relax in a peaceful place of beauty to reflect on the last 8 month of my quest and to mentally prepare myself for coming home. This place afforded me this opportunity and I embraced several hours of reflection while gazing at scenery of mountain ranges accompanied by the sound of birds chirping and a water stream in the background. It truly was a perfect destination to conclude my trip.

A small town in the region where we visited a Buddhist monastery.

The following morning I woke up to a town full of snow and fog that limited ones sight to 5 feet. Upon arriving at the airport I was informed that my flight was delayed. After waiting another hour, the flight was canceled and we were told to return the following morning. Cold and tired, I decided to splurge and get a room with adequate heating and cable TV. Because it was too cold to go outside, I spent the day ordering room service and watching HBO. The next morning I made it to Delhi.

Me with my Polish friend

Delhi
Upon arriving in Delhi, the Puris explained to me that I missed my party that they had thrown for me the following evening, as they had anticipated my arrival the previous day. They had invited all their friends to wish me off. I was saddened that I could not attend my own party but was encouraged that they liked me enough to plan a party in my honor. We spent the day talking and them stuffing me with my last taste of authentic Indian food for a while.

That night, we sat and watched a video of their youngest daughter’s wedding in the early 90’s. The event consisted of 10 consecutive days of parties and gatherings. I was thrilled to have a chance to see scenes of my Aunt Julie and late grandparents, who had attended the event. The following morning I went to the airport and began a two day trip that consisted of little sleep and much time in airport before arriving back in the states on March 23, 2011. My departure from the Puris was no doubt emotional and it is obvious that we will equally miss each other.

I am now at home in the states and am recovering from my 8 month quest. It was all that I expected and more and I am grateful to all that supported me through this experience. This quest allowed much personal growth and I am no doubt the better for it.

So this is it. No more posts and no more inspiring and exciting adventures…at least for a while. I look forward to seeing all of you soon in person!


Sincerely,

John Mike D’Agostino