Friday, March 25, 2011

India-Week 4 & 5….Coming to America


Leh
My last two weeks of India consisted of breathtaking views, excitement, peaceful experiences, frustrations, exhaustion, extreme weather differences, inspiring encounters and reluctant goodbyes. The final four destinations I visited included Goa, Hampi, Leh and Delhi.

My last blog post revealed the unfortunate demise of my iPod. Well…I lost my camera in week 4 containing all of my India pictures. I was forced to resort to having friends that I made along the way send me pictures by email in order to finish this final entry. Fortunately, I had saved all of my Kenya pictures on a flash drive. Quite frankly, I am surprised I made it almost 8 months without somehow destroying or losing my camera. I imagine that parents are also wondering how I was responsible for so long. In summation, I lost my camera and all my India pictures but still have my Kenya pictures. I resorted to purchasing overpriced disposable cameras in order to take pictures of Hampi and Leh.

My previous post ended with me in Udaipur. I left Udaipur via an 18 hour train ride to Mumbai, where slumdog millionaire was filmed. Upon arriving, I was overwhelmed with the chaos that is Mumbai. The city is the major financial capital and home of Bollywood (India’s version of Hollywood). People flock to this city from all over the country with dreams of making a better life. The result is a large influx of unskilled migrants from the countryside that has given rise to the largest slums in the world.

The overwhelming odors, population, and homelessness struck me as I got off the train. It was the intimidating India that I expected before arriving to the country. Knowing that it would take me a week or two to begin to attack such a city, I decided to get to the local bus station and take a bus to Goa. I was in no mental state to navigate such a city and decided it was best to skip Mumbai for more peaceful and relaxing destinations. In navigating to the bus stop, I had to cross through the rubble of a recently collapsed train overpass in which thousands of people were scheming to use the crumbled pieces of steal and assorted parts for some benefit. As I walked toward the local train to take me to the bus station, I observed many filthy children, obviously homeless, lying on piles of used clothes that were being distributed by a local organization that was apparently overwhelmed by the mass numbers that had gathered to collect any available item. As I attempted to stealthily slither my way through the crowds, I felt a tug on my backpack. I turned to see a teenager attempting to unload the contents out of my bag. After yelling at him he fled into the masses.

The local city train, my first such experience, was no doubt more crowded and confusing than the New York subway. Just like in the movies, the Indians were literally hanging out the open train holding on to anything possible. I had to take extra care of my possessions on the train as it afforded no personal space. After six hours in Mumbai, I was on a 13 hour bus to Goa. Needless to say, I was happy to be leaving Mumbai.

Goa
I arrived at Goa and took a local bus to the closest beach. After finding a cheap guest house on the beach, I went to the closest restaurant to indulge in some fresh fish. It was amazing! The cuisine in Goa is unique and combines fish and coconut in the dishes (two ingredients that I love). Hundreds of years ago Portuguese missionaries settled in Goa. Consequently, I experienced my first Catholic presence in India. Only 2% of the population in India is Christian. It was nice to see a Catholic church.

Goa is situated on the west coast and has become a popular travel destination for rich Europeans, especially Russians. The beach was filled with white vacationing family. All I could think is…this is not India. I decided to leave the next day on an overnight bus to a small town called Hampi.

Hampi
Along my trip I had heard nothing but exciting stories about the experience and beauty of Hampi. I decided to check it out myself. Hampi is a town toward the center of the country that is surrounded by hills of impossibly configured boulders. Surrounding the boulders as far as you can see are strategically placed rice patty fields and banana tree fields surrounded by coconut trees. The result is an abundance of the best tasting rice, bananas and coconuts. No doubt that I indulged in all three of these local food staples.

Hampi
Hampi
My second day I decided to rent a motor bike and explore this region which contains beautiful boulder formations, scenery, and Hindu temples. After parking and walking toward a temple, I was approached by a fellow traveler. She asked me what temple this was. Of course I did not know. After finding out that she was from California, she asked me where I was going. I explained to her that I was heading toward the nearest town to purchase a beer and watch the sunset on a boulder hill. She explained that she was hoping to grab a beer and asked if she could join. She jumped on the back of my motorbike and within two minutes of meeting a fellow American traveler we drove off into the sunset (that is actually not true because it was only 4pm). We hung out for the next day. I was lucky to meet another unique and inspiring individual on my trip. The following evening we parted ways and I headed back to Goa.

Hampi on my way to a waterfall.  The red spot on my forehead is a powder applied as a Hindu blessing when visiting a temple.

Hampi rice fields
From Goa I flew to Delhi and stayed with my friends the Puris for two days before flying to Leh.

Leh
Leh is a city in the northern province of Kashmir and Jammu (yes that Kashmir) that resides in a valley of the Himalayas. It is heavily populated by Tibetan refugees and Indian military due to the close proximity to Pakistan and China occupied Tibet. In Delhi I bought some cheap winter close in preparations for the harsh weather in the mountains (my Kenyan cloths would not suffice in such a climate). I stepped off the plane to 10 degree Fahrenheit temperatures. It was not warm! My body was definitely not used to the cold climate or high altitude. I had not experienced such cold in over 14 months.


The Indus river from which India got its name.

My first day consisted of taking it easy in my room and adapting to the climate and altitude. The next day I met a Polish couple and we decided to hire a driver to take us through several towns in the mountains and see various Buddhist temples. There is no doubt that I observed the most beautiful landscapes in my life. The polish couple was amazing and I enjoyed listening to them banter in broken English for several hours during the ride. 
Himalayas

The following two days I explored Leh and found quiet places to relax and take in the view. My hope for Leh was to relax in a peaceful place of beauty to reflect on the last 8 month of my quest and to mentally prepare myself for coming home. This place afforded me this opportunity and I embraced several hours of reflection while gazing at scenery of mountain ranges accompanied by the sound of birds chirping and a water stream in the background. It truly was a perfect destination to conclude my trip.

A small town in the region where we visited a Buddhist monastery.
The following morning I woke up to a town full of snow and fog that limited ones sight to 5 feet. Upon arriving at the airport I was informed that my flight was delayed. After waiting another hour, the flight was canceled and we were told to return the following morning. Cold and tired, I decided to splurge and get a room with adequate heating and cable TV. Because it was too cold to go outside, I spent the day ordering room service and watching HBO. The next morning I made it to Delhi.

Me with my Polish friend
Delhi
Upon arriving in Delhi, the Puris explained to me that I missed my party that they had thrown for me the following evening, as they had anticipated my arrival the previous day. They had invited all their friends to wish me off. I was saddened that I could not attend my own party but was encouraged that they liked me enough to plan a party in my honor. We spent the day talking and them stuffing me with my last taste of authentic Indian food for a while.

That night, we sat and watched a video of their youngest daughter’s wedding in the early 90’s. The event consisted of 10 consecutive days of parties and gatherings. I was thrilled to have a chance to see scenes of my Aunt Julie and late grandparents, who had attended the event. The following morning I went to the airport and began a two day trip that consisted of little sleep and much time in airport before arriving back in the states on March 23, 2011. My departure from the Puris was no doubt emotional and it is obvious that we will equally miss each other.

I am now at home in the states and am recovering from my 8 month quest. It was all that I expected and more and I am grateful to all that supported me through this experience. This quest allowed much personal growth and I am no doubt the better for it.

So this is it. No more posts and no more inspiring and exciting adventures…at least for a while. I look forward to seeing all of you soon in person!


Sincerely,

John Mike D’Agostino



Saturday, March 5, 2011

India- Week 2 & 3

Sunset view of Udaipur
 My second and third week in India provided unexpected adventures.  I met some really interesting and cool people, had a chance to participate in fun and challenging activities, and visited some beautiful sights.  I now understand how to manuvour through the country.  From personal experience and speaking with other travelers, I have learned how the bus, train, autorickshaw (three wheeled vehicles everywhere throughout India), and hotel systems work. 
A streetside Indian dessert vendor in Varanasi.  Varanasi is known for its desserts.
 My first long train ride (14 hours) from Agra to Varanasi was rough.  I was definitely not prepared for the trip.  I bought a general ticket because the train was completely booked.  A general ticket places you in a train car where you most likely will not have a seat.  Armed with no blanket and clothes fit for Kenyan survival, I suffered.  I was placed in an entrance way next to the doors and the toilets.  The combination of odor and a constant cold breeze streaming through the poorly sealed doors made for a cold 14 hours.  I arrived in Varanasi ready to find a room and sleep!

Varanasi
The last time you heard from me I was deciding which amazing city to visit next.  Varanasi is where I ended up. Varanasi is the Hindu religious capital, an academic center in India, and one of the oldest continually inhabited cities in the world.  The Hindus believe that the river bordering Varanasi (Ganga River) contains holy water.  It is believed that if a Hindu person's ashes are put into the river, that person will be relieved from the cycle of reincarnation.  Cleaning your clothes or body in the water is purifying and many people do so.
A common site in the streets of Varanasi.

Countless ghats, or holy platforms and staircases that lead to the Ganga, encompass the river bank.  This is the main attraction of Varanasi.  Hindu people take religious pilgrimages to this holy city for various spiritual purposes.  Each ghat has a different purpose.  For instance, one of the ghats is the location for body burnings (after one has already died) which are performed continuously throughout the day and evening.  The ashes of the body are then spread into the river.  This public body burning tradition is much different than private cremations in the states.

Varanasi was old and dirty with confusing alley ways that led to my disorientation on numerous occasions.  The city was definitely less modern and wealthy as the other cities I have visited.  Despite its rough edges, Varanasi possessed a spiritual vibe that made it quite unique.  Indians travel from all over the country to contribute and participate in the spiritual atmosphere of the city.
Traditional Hindu ceremony performed on a Ghat in Varanasi
Sunset view of Varanasi
 Because of its spiritual nature, Yoga is famous in Varanasi.  Therefore, I decided to take my first Yoga class.  Wow.. was my performance embarrassing.  I displayed absolutely no flexibility and often failed at performing the most basic breathing techniques.  How hard is breathing?  Despite my poor performance, it provided a strong base for further exploration in the future.

I took a sunset boat ride into the Ganga River which was quite peaceful.  That evening I boarded a long train for Jaipur.

Jaipur
My 18 hour train trip to Jaipur was much more pleasant with a sleeper bed and newly purchased sleeping bag.  Upon arriving, I immediately recognized distinct differences between Jaipur and Varanasi.  Jaipur is a modern, wealthy city due to its high business activity and jewelry enterprises.  It is very cheap for companies to send diamonds to Jaipur to be cleaned and shaped with dirt-cheap Indian labor and then ship the finished products to the western world to be sold at a substantial markup.
A palace build in the water in Jaipur
An elephant orphanage in Jaipur
 I visited a 1000 year old Hindu temple in the hills just outside of the city.  This was the most memorable part of my time in Jaipur.  I spent one day in bed recovering from a head cold which significantly diminished my energy.  The following day, after getting plenty of rest, I boarded a train for Jaiselmer.

Jaiselmer
Jaiselmer is a desert city in the western part of the country about 80km from Pakistan.  The cities main attraction is its hilltop fort.  You can stay in the fort but are encouraged to resist due to water shortages partly from excessive tourism.  The city was much smaller and more peaceful than any of the other places in India that I have visited so far.  

Jaiselmer Fort
 I met three French travelers and one Danish traveler on the train to Jaiselmer.  We ended up staying at the same hotel and they convinced me to go on a camel safari with them.  Jaiselmer safaris are famous but because I had recently been on a Kenyan safari, which cannot be duplicated, I did not plan on going on one.  My plans changed when my new friends pursuaded me to tag along on their safari.  Yearning for social contact, I quickly buckled and joined the group.

We left for the camel safari in the morning at 8:00am and arrived the next evening at 6:00pm.  We rode the camels for five hours on the first day and stopped to camp in the desert on sand dunes.  We ate dinner and our safari guide sang desert-man songs as we sat around a fire.  Sleeping out in the desert was very cold but provided a beautiful view of the sky.  The following day we road for 5 more hours.
What a natural!
The travelers I went on the safari with.
Our camel safari guide singing around the fire.
 Riding a camel is quite uncomfortable, expectually for men.  Beyond the obvious body parts that were sore, my legs and back also ached toward the end of the safari.  Calling our trip a safari is not very accurate considering we only saw a gazelle from the distance.  Nevertheless, I enjoyed the experience and making new friends.
Where we slept
Udaipur
I have now spent a few days in Udaipur and plan on leaving this evening for Mumbai.  Udaipur has been the most beautiful city I have visited thus far (and also my favorite).  Udaipur is a modern city build around a lake that is surrounded by steep hills.  Yesterday I went to a place on top of one of the hills that provides a wonderful view of the city during sunset.  It was the most rewarding tourist activity I have partaken in during my time in India.  I also took a cooking class yesterday.  My performance was much better than yoga due to my experience cooking Italian food at home.  It was enjoyable and I now know how to cook basic Indian food.  I look forward to trying the new recipes when I return to the states. 

In cooking class with another student and the instructor on the far right.
 I have been able to relax and recharge here.  I am now ready to begin the second half of my trip. A sidenote....My ipod, my theraputic tool during times of exhaustian, boredom and frustration, has broken.  I will have to finish my trip the old fashioned way, without music.  Hopefully I will be able to persevere and survive without it. 

Until Next Time....